Cruise Travel: Self-Guided October Port Day in Hakodate

Enjoying this breakfast view from the Windjammer Marketplace, on Deck 14, of the Royal Caribbean Ovation of the Seas.
 

A complimentary shuttle bus to take us on a 10 minute, 3.8 mile journey from Minatomachi Pier 港町ふ頭 Hakodate to the Hakodate Cruise Terminal.
 

First, money exchange! I love how they turned this cute Suzuki Hustler into a mobile business.
Sign says, "Only bills are accepted. Up to $300 per customer." The currency exchange rate with this service was USD 1.00 = 142.50 ¥

And look how the government turned this Toyota Camroad Japanese Motorhome into a Customs vehicle.
 

I quickly snapped this picture as the bus passed the Hakodate Beer Pub.
 
"The history of the Hakodate Beer pub spans over a century, tracing back to Hakodate’s first brewery in 1898. Today, the famous Hakodate Beer Hall blends this rich Meiji-era history with modern brewing." –JapanTravel.com
 

8:30am – Arrival at Hakodate Cruise Terminal

Hakodate photo-op next to Ika Square. We had forgotten to snap a picture of the symbolic Squid Fishing Monument – an abstract sculpture representing a swarming school of squid. It celebrates the city's identity as Japan's squid capital – where squid ("ika") was designated as Hakodate's official city fish in 1989.

Next door was the Museum Ship - Mashu Maru.
 
The Mashu Maru (... sounds like marshmallow...) once graced the seas as a ferry, connecting the northern island of Hokkaido with Honshu, the heart of Japan. Now a permanent fixture at the historic Pier 2 of Hakodate Port, this vessel faithfully served the Seikan Ferry line until its final voyage on March 13, 1988. Today, it has transformed into a floating museum, inviting visitors to step back into the nostalgic charm of the Showa era.
 
DID YOU KNOW: The Lineage of Japan’s Emperors:
 
The Showa Era marks a significant chapter in Japan's history, corresponding with the rule of Emperor Shōwa, also known as Hirohito, who reigned from December 25, 1926, until his death on January 7, 1989.
 
Upon Emperor Shōwa's passing, the Chrysanthemum Throne was inherited by his eldest son, Akihito, who took up the mantle of leadership.
 
In a historic moment in 2019, Akihito stepped down, making way for the current Emperor, Naruhito, to ascend the throne.
 
The modern Constitution, enacted in 1946 shortly after World War II, outlines the Emperor’s role as "the symbol of the State and of the unity of the people," devoid of governmental powers. His responsibilities are purely ceremonial, confined to "acts in matters of state" as defined by this guiding document.
 
According to the Imperial Household Agency, "All members of the Imperial Family, with the exception of His Majesty and the inner-court members, receive an annual financial allowance to support a lifestyle fitting their status. The law dictates how this allowance is calculated. For fiscal year 2026, the total came to 255 million yen (approximately $1,601,708)."
 
Meanwhile, Japan Times reveals that "Currently, lawmakers receive a monthly salary of ¥1.294 million. In addition, the prime minister is paid ¥1.152 million, and Cabinet ministers ¥489,000, according to Chief Cabinet Secretary Minoru Kihara."
 

9:00am - we've taken a stroll and are now nearby Shichizai Bridge. Arriving early in the morning, we avoided crowds to get a few picturesque snapshots.
 

 

Kanamori Red Brick Warehouse

Have you ever stumbled upon a gem like the Shichizai Bridge? It’s an incredible spot for photography! You can capture the enchanting Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses to the lush, ivy-covered walls of BAY HAKODATE, the charming canal, and even Mount Hakodate (...where we're actually heading up to...), all in one stunning panoramic view. Isn't that amazing? Look at the lush, vibrant-green ivy that has climbed the historic, red-brick walls! Although it's an October day, they haven't turned into their dramatic crimson red yet.

Nestled off the harbor, the 7 Kanamori Red Brick Warehouse 金森赤レンガ倉庫 was established in 1887 by Kumashiro Watanabe. He was one of Hakodate’s famous tycoons. Although a massive fire claimed 6 of the original wooden structures in 1907, the complex bounced back in style, reimagined in robust fire-resistant red brick by 1909. Today, it’s a lively hotspot for dining and shopping, all while keeping the original architectural charm intact! We explored up and down many of the shops here after our visit to Mount Hakodate.
 

Japan takes manhole cover designs to a whole new level, don't they?! At one point, I read there was an outdoor display of manhole cover art outside the Nagoya City Sewerage Science Museum.
 

We stumbled upon this squid piece of street art... not surprising since Hakodate, Hokkaido is Japan's Squid Capital.
 

Sprinkled throughout the area, you'll find a handful of charming bronze cat sculptures. In a city that thrived on trade, these feline figures served as a playful tribute to the cats of yesteryear, who defended merchant goods and ports from pesky rodents!
 

I believe this bronze statue is "Oshama-san" (or "The Girl with the Red Shoes") statue from a famous Japanese nursery rhyme "Akai Katsu" (Red Shoes). Supposedly, it's Kimi-chan - the young girl who inspired the famous 1922 nursery rhyme.
 

Lucky Pierrot Bay Area Main Shop - the flagship location of a cult-favorite Hokkaido burger chain. It is famous for its award-winning Chinese Chicken Burger, eccentric "Merry-Go-Round in the Forest" theme, and oversized "Lucky-Pote" french fries.
 

Next door was the Hasegawa Store Bay Area Shop is a convenience store famous for its Yakitori Bento, which features grilled pork skewers served over rice. The large sign is styled as a lunchbox to represent this signature item. Yet another place to try on a return trip!
 

Lucky Pierrot Marina Suehiro Store, is located opposite the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse. Next time we will have to walk in and try their hamburgers.
 

This manhole cover seems to feature a star-shaped design... possibly inspired by the Goryokaku Fortress?
 
"Goryokaku Fort is a massive, star-shaped, Western-style citadel in Hakodate, Hokkaido, Japan, completed in 1864. Famous for its five-pointed geometric shape designed to maximize firepower and eliminate blind spots during battle, it is a Special National Historic Site and the site of the final 1869 battle of the Boshin War."

 

 

Nijukken Zaka Slope

While exploring the charming Motomachi area, we came across one of its distinct stairways: Nijukken-zaka. Nijukken (二十間, literally "20-ken") is a traditional Japanese unit of measurement. This slope stands out due to its remarkable width of 20 ken, which is around 118 feet! Hakodate has a history of battling fires, especially after a big one in 1879, which prompted the redesign of Nijukken-zaka to serve as a firebreak. That's why it’s much broader compared to other streets. Take a stroll down the slope with the majestic Mount Hakodate at your back, and you'll find yourself at the lively Hakodate Morning Market in no time!
 
I personally just enjoyed the treeline views which the slope is also known locally as Midori-zaka ("Green Slope").
 

Ōtani Hongan-ji Hakodate Betsu-in (Buddhist Temple)
 

Top of the slope: If you turn right, you'll be walking towards the Catholic Church Hakodate Motomachi カトリック元町教会 .
 

The history of the Motomachi Roman Catholic Church began in 1859 when French missionary Mermet de Cachon conducted a mass for foreigners visiting Hakodate. In 1867, a temporary church hall was established to accommodate this growing community. Subsequently, in 1877, Father Marin oversaw the construction of the first permanent church building. Unfortunately, this wooden structure was destroyed by fire in 1907. It was later rebuilt using bricks, only to suffer damage from another fire in 1921. Restoration efforts focused on reinforcing the surviving brick walls to completion of the current building in 1923. During this reconstruction, a bell tower, reaching a height of 33 meters, was added.
 

Atop this octagonal tower, a rooster serves as a sentinel, symbolizing watchfulness over the congregation.
 

 

Mount Hakodate Ropeway Station

9:25am – We now make our way to the Mt. Hakodate Ropeway 函館山ロープウェイ. Across the street from the ropeway entrance looks to be a cute house but was Kissadokoro Piero 喫茶処 琲絵炉 cafe that's received 4.9 of 5.0 (84 Google reviews) but being Tuesday, it was closed, plus their hours were from 11:30am to 7pm.
 

They'll be opening the doors to purchase tickets or gather a line at 9:30am but the ropeway service isn't operational until 10am. For views with a meal, there was Restaurant Genova which opened for lunch at 11:30am with a reasonable priced menu from ¥1,000 ($6.28) to 6,000 ($37.69). Also open for dinner, I can see enjoying dinner or snacks at Restaurant Genova in the evening to enjoy Hakodate's city lights.
 

2 Roundtrip Tickets, please! ¥1,800 (~$6.58) per person
 

We we ascend and I look right below, I catch a glimpse of the landmark – Birthplace of the Hakodate Waterworks 函館水道発祥之地. In 1989, the Motomachi Water Distribution Plant was unveiled to the public to celebrate 100 year anniversary of the waterworks' establishment. This charming facility is not just functional, it offers visitors a serene environment complete with scenic walking trails and impressive cherry trees that have stood tall for over a century. It's a delightful spot for anyone looking to connect with nature while learning about the history of the area. It's the oldest active water distribution reservoir in Japan. It still supplies water to about 10,000 residents around Mt. Hakodate
 

Our scenic 3-minute aerial ride 1,096 feet up to the top -or- you can hike it using the popular Kyusando Course trail (~2.9 mile roundtrip) - which takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete from the trailhead. Would hike it if we had more time in port!
 

(Below) highlighted in pink is the treeline where we had walked up Nijukken Zaka Slope.
 

 

1. Hakodate Orthodox Church 函館ハリストス正教会 - It was established in 1859 directly by the Russian Consulate following the opening of the port of Hakodate.
2. Myofuku-ji 日蓮宗 眞如山妙福寺 (Buddhist Temple)
3. Catholic Church Hakodate Motomachi カトリック元町教会 (Historic Roman Catholic Church)
4. Saint John's Church 函館聖ヨハネ教会 (Angelican Church)

 

We can see our RCL cruise ship now.
 

Lucky to have great visibility today! Spotted a large-billed crow. FM Iruka - Radio Station can also be found at the ropeway. It's Japan’s very first community FM station focusing heavily on local Hakodate, Hokkaido topics.
 

1. Monument Commemorating Emperor Meiji's Landing (明治天皇上陸記念碑)
   Emperor Meiji, originally named Mutsuhito, holds the distinguished title of Japan's 122nd emperor, serving from 1867 until his passing in 1912. His era is famously known for the "Meiji Restoration," a pivotal period during which Japan transitioned from a secluded feudal state to a thriving industrialized nation on the world stage. A fascinating landmark to visit is the Emperor Meiji Landing Monument, located in the charming port city of Hakodate, Hokkaido. This monument commemorates the precise location where the emperor stepped onto Japanese soil in July 1876 as part of his journey through northern Japan. It’s an intriguing spot that offers a glimpse into the historic changes that shaped modern Japan.
2. Midorinoshima Yacht Harbor (緑の島 ヨットハーバー)
   "Midorinoshima is a man-made island floating in Hakodate Harbor that can be easily visited by crossing a bridge. It is a popular viewing spot from which visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the bay area, including the red brick warehouses." Travel Hakodate

 

It was ~1/2 mile, 15-minute walk to get to the ropeway station from the red brick warehouse area. Of course, give yourself time for stopping and photographing along the way.
 

1. Minatomachi Pier - hello RCL Ovation of the Seas!
2. Hakodate Harbor
3. Ōmori Beach
   Ōmori Beach, situated on the eastern flank of Hakodate's prominent headland, stretches approximately 3 kilometers (1.86 miles) along the coastline. This scenic beach is bordered by charming rural homes, creating a picturesque backdrop. During the summer, it becomes a hot spot for visitors, with ample parking available along the nearby side streets, making it easy to enjoy a sun-soaked day by the sea.
4. Mount Esan 恵山 an active volcano

10:45AM - Time to head back down in search of lunch! We ended up having some hot, savory ramen at AJISAI Ramen shop back closer to the Red Brick Warehouses.