Exploring Hawaii: Mauna Kea Summit & Stars with Hawaii Forest & Trail

We expected a long drive (3+ hours) and had two additional stops to pick up other passengers for the tour. Along the way, we enjoyed driving on the Queen Ka'ahumanu Hwy with sweeping views of the Kohala Coast landscape - the dark, black 'a'ā and pāhoehoe lava fields against the bright turquoise and blue Pacific as we headed towards Waikoloa.

From Waikoloa to Saddle Road, we started to witness sweeping, golden grassland with expansive views of Mauna Loa, Hualālai, and Mauna Kea.

Birding: Spotted The Nēnē

The nēnē, also known as the Hawaiian goose, is Hawaiʻi’s official state bird and the rarest goose species in the world. Once nearly extinct, with fewer than 30 birds left in the wild during the 1950s, dedicated conservation and reintroduction efforts have helped their population recover to more than 3,500 birds across the islands today.

1st Stop: A BBQ Picnic Dinner at Humu‘ula Sheep Station

Humu‘ula Sheep Station (also known as Kalaieha) sits at the junction of Saddle Road and the Mauna Kea Access Road on the Big Island.

Ways the Tour Prevented Altitude Sickness

1. Mauna Kea Summit would be 13,796 to 13,803 feet above sea level. The tour recommended not drinking alcohol before the tour.

2. 5:45 PM'ish dinner was served. Guests didn't quite know when dinner would be, but it made sense that it'd be the first thing we did before heading up to the summit. Having our picnic dinner at Humu‘ula Sheep Station, we were able to get acclimated at a comfortable elevation of 6,000 to 7,000 feet above sea level.

After the meal, we explored this deserted property.

Established in the 1860s, Humu‘ula Sheep Station once served as a major hub for Merino sheep ranching on the slopes of Mauna Kea. The station operated until 1963, when sheep ranching was phased out in favor of cattle. Any remaining feral sheep were later removed by conservationists to protect native forests. After the transition, Parker Ranch continued running cattle operations in the Humu‘ula-Kalaieha area until their lease expired in 2002. Today, the site stands as a historic but abandoned reminder of Hawaii’s ranching past.

The Onizuka Center for International Astronomy (also known as Hale Pōhaku)

As our tour bus wound its way up the mountain, we passed the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy (located at 19°45'33"N, 155°27'22"W) at 9,200 feet. Even from the road, I could see the Visitor Information Station and its surrounding buildings nestled against the stark landscape. Named after Ellison S. Onizuka, Hawaiʻi’s first astronaut who tragically perished in the 1986 Space Shuttle Challenger disaster, the center serves as a vital hub on Mauna Kea.

It acts as the main visitor orientation point, offers educational displays, and provides dormitories, dining, and workspace for the roughly 72 astronomers, engineers, and technicians who live and work at the summit observatories. Although we didn’t stop there on this trip, it was fascinating to learn how essential the center is — especially as a critical acclimatization stop for anyone continuing higher up the mountain.

Temps at the Summit: 28°F to 32°F

We were given WearGuard Style 405 Parkas and gloves for the sunset and tonight's stargazing. Kept us quite cozy even with the wind on this day!

By this point, the breathlessness was real — we had officially entered “thin air” territory. Hypoxia starts becoming noticeable around 8,000 feet, especially if you’re moving around, and let me tell you, it hits differently up here.

Our tour bus climbed past the Very Long Baseline Array (VLBA) station, perched at roughly 12,200 to 12,400 feet above sea level. Just seeing the elevation numbers made me appreciate how high we truly were.

Sunset at the Mauna Kea Summit occurred at 6:51 PM HST

I was really shocked how every step reminded me that the air was significantly thinner, adding an extra layer of intensity to this otherworldly experience on Mauna Kea. Yes, I did inhale some of the provided oxygen as I felt the dizzy spells.

Stargazing Time: Hot Chocolate and Brownies Welcomed.

One of the highlights of the night was learning just how incredible the planetary viewing is from Mauna Kea. From what our guide told us, Saturn is visible here almost year-round, but the clearest views happen during its opposition in late summer through autumn and especially during the dry season from April to October when the atmosphere is at its steadiest.

That night in April, we were lucky enough to catch Saturn and Venus hanging close together in the pre-dawn sky. Venus was unmistakable — the brightest object up there, shining with an intense, steady silvery-white glow that almost looked artificial. Saturn, by comparison, was much more subtle and dreamy, glowing with a soft yellowish-gold hue.

Our guide, John, used his laser pointer to trace constellations across the sky, but the real magic happened when he pointed the Celestron telescope at Saturn. The moment those iconic rings came into view, I was so mesmerized.

Conclusion: 👍👍 A Must-Do while in the Big Island is a visit to Mauna Kea.

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