...
Explore Hawaii: 2009 Xcel Pro Presented by Honolua
November 1, 2009
The Quicksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau 25th Annual (Waimea Bay, Northshore, Oahu)
December 7, 2009
Explore Hawaii: 2009 Xcel Pro Presented by Honolua
November 1, 2009
The Quicksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau 25th Annual (Waimea Bay, Northshore, Oahu)
December 7, 2009
 

First Time: Surfing (and Humbled) at Haleiwa


QUESTION: Have you tried surfing?

Mention @JustWanderMaya and hashtag your photo with #JustWanderWithUs


Thank goodness it was a small day and luckily somewhat uncrowded lineup at Haleiwa. I did start my surf with a baseball cap for sun protection but my very first wave here slapped it off... and I couldn't find it floating anywhere. I thought, "I haven't lost a surf hat in 2 years. Welcome to Haleiwa! Sorry Mother Ocean." Even on small days, there's some power in these waves! Typically a nice long right, new to this break, I stayed out of the way and took the chill lefts... with all smiles.

The Surfing Anatomy of Haleiwa

"From two to four feet, Haleiwa is a rippable peak, with most surfers favoring the longer rights. Its racey walls allow for high-performance surfing at its best. At four to six feet, the right can get hollow and heavy, and competitors will sit deep and look for the longest barrels. When waves hit 10-15 feet, be prepared for the so-called "toilet bowl," an extremely difficult, shallow closeout in the end section of the ride that has claimed many surfboards." –Surfing Today


On This Day in History